LUCIO VANOTTI -POOL- S/S 2014 Man's Collection.

Squares. The essence of squared surfaces, rectangles and boxes rooms invites for pensive research on form. Form is subject to structure and structure in turn is innate to shape. By exploring the dimensions of mathematical equations, one appears submerged in perpendicular dialogues. In this morose setting, stripped of all frivolities, one does not sigh, one articulates. For SS14, Lucio Vanotti explores the dimensional interplay of silhouettes, by dissecting his collection into two interwoven sections. This dissection allows for contrast and interaction, without eliminating a dialogue on surfaces and texture. A more understated group of willful garments, consists of black, white, grey and blue notes, expressively contradicted by striped fabrics, minimal squares and small hole details. The classical jacket is deconstructed, allowing for the arms to be removed, to add onto the boxy feel of the collection. Loosely inspired by the likes of Brancusi, David Hockney’s pool series and Carl André’s rigid sculptures, the other section of SS14 is notably lighter, breezy and rather intimate. Here garments are centered around a colour-palette of creams, hued pinks and notes of rust. The understated pool water and egg/sky prints provide a further graphic edge to the minimalist feel of both groups. Overall the surfaces are maintained a little grainy, to resemble a metaphorical second skin. Lucio Vanotti further explores textures and fabrics, by merging classic fabrics in an innovative composed manner. Selections of alcantara, smooth silky cotton stretch, crisp seersucker, mako jersey, white plissé cotton and lightweight knits, are used to create a translucent feel. A return to fluid shapes, materials and hand-feel is contrasted by the stern boxy shapes of the jackets, pants, shirts and shorts. This inquisition into the anatomy of shapes, lines and their textures, shapes another chapter in Lucio Vanotti’s didactic dedication towards sartorial understatement and effortless composure.

No comments: