LUCIO VANOTTI S/S 2013 Men's Collection "SLEEPWALKER"
Purism, reductionism, concision characterize Lucio Vanotti’s work. Sign, matter, surface are the variables of his design theorem. The expression is crystal-clear: fast, efficient, anti-romantic. Intended as a daily object, the item of clothing is reduced to its basic essence: an extreme abstraction that is easy to use. The form-function axiom is solved fusing beauty with utility, avoiding ornamentation. A sense of suspension dominates the s/s 13 collection. The divide between public and private, sleeping and waking, otium and negotium is obliterated with a fast, precise gesture which is deeply emotional but not at all pathetic. The taste for the uniform, for dressing according to a formula, softens in the idea of productive laziness inside one’s own house. The basic combination is jacket plus trousers, to which shirts, t-shirts, t-shirt shirts, cardigans are added. Tops have the sleepy sturdiness of a pajama. The pieces, all together, create a repertoire which can be taken apart and reconfigured in individual ways. Lines are straight, perpendicularm unfussy; volumes and relaxed. The tension between being at home and public life is solved alternating firm fabrics - gabardine, shirting, cotton canvas - with liquid ones - jersey, satin, makò cotton - and dry forms with cocooning ones. The alternation between sleeping and waking carries on in the prints: notebook squares, onomatopoeias, camo effects that mimic flakes on domestic tiles. the color palette is rational, with dreamy contradictions: white , black, blue, and then terracotta, burnt neutrals and touches of light blue and green. Accessories are domestic but not shabby: sandals and slippers. Angelo